Inherited a coin collection?
You don't need to know how to grade coins to spot the valuable stuff. Before you sell, trade, or (please) clean anything, just sort. Here's what to keep and what to check — the same first pass a collector would do.
⬇ Free printable checklist (PDF)Print it, sort on a table, tick the boxes. No email, no signup.
The goal of the first pass isn't to price anything — it's to separate the coins worth researching from the ones that aren't. Pulling a coin aside means "check this," not "this is automatically valuable" — think of it as a don't-throw-anything-interesting-away guide, not a price guide. Make these piles and you'll have done most of the useful work.
*War nickels: the ones with a large mint mark (P, D, or S) above Monticello on the back.
If you remember nothing else, remember the date lines. In U.S. coins, silver mostly disappeared after 1964:
| Coin | Dates | Silver content |
|---|---|---|
| Dimes, quarters, half dollars | 1964 & earlier | 90% silver |
| Half dollars (Kennedy) | 1965–1970 | 40% silver |
| Eisenhower dollars (silver collector issues) | 1971–1976 | 40% silver |
| Nickels ("war" nickels — big mint mark over Monticello) | 1942–1945* | 35% silver |
| Silver dollars (Morgan / Peace) | 1878–1935 | 90% silver |
Silver alone gives these coins value even before you consider whether a date or mint mark makes them collectible.
Once the piles are made, this is the single most useful thing to learn: two coins that look identical can be worth wildly different amounts because of where they were struck. The classic example is the Morgan dollar — a Carson City (CC) Morgan gets a collector's attention fast.
A Carson City (CC) coin isn't an automatic jackpot — some CC dates are common — but it always means stop and check it.
This one deserves its own giant warning, because it's the mistake that costs people the most money. A valuable old coin with original surfaces can become far less desirable after cleaning — sometimes losing most of its premium.
Get more than one opinion, and don't sell to the first buyer who makes an offer. For real values, take your "check these" pile to a reputable coin dealer, or look for coins certified by PCGS or NGC and dealers affiliated with the ANA (American Numismatic Association). Sell the melt-value silver and the collectible coins as two different things — a common date silver quarter is worth its silver; a rare date or mint mark can be worth many times more.
Once you know what you've got, catalog and value it before it goes back in the safe. GoldPayroll's free, private Vault Report values your gold and silver at live spot and generates a clean, print-ready record — nothing uploaded, no account needed. Prefer a spreadsheet? Grab the free inventory template.
Open the free Vault Report → or download the free inventory spreadsheetThis guide is for education and personal record-keeping only. It is not an appraisal, and it is not financial, tax, or investment advice. Coin values depend on date, mint mark, condition, and market — always get a professional opinion before buying or selling. Estimated silver melt values are indicative and change with the market.