Inherited a coin collection?

Sort That Stack

You don't need to know how to grade coins to spot the valuable stuff. Before you sell, trade, or (please) clean anything, just sort. Here's what to keep and what to check — the same first pass a collector would do.

⬇ Free printable checklist (PDF)

Print it, sort on a table, tick the boxes. No email, no signup.

Start here: potentially valuable vs. definitely valuable

The goal of the first pass isn't to price anything — it's to separate the coins worth researching from the ones that aren't. Pulling a coin aside means "check this," not "this is automatically valuable" — think of it as a don't-throw-anything-interesting-away guide, not a price guide. Make these piles and you'll have done most of the useful work.

The piles

Pile 1 Silver — by date

  • Dimes dated 1964 or earlier (90% silver)
  • Quarters dated 1964 or earlier (90%)
  • Half dollars 1964 or earlier (90%)
  • Half dollars 1965–1970 (40% silver)
  • Nickels 1942–1945 with a large P/D/S mint mark over Monticello (35% silver)*
  • Anything that looks obviously silver and old

Pile 2 Old pennies

  • Any cent 1958 or earlier (wheat backs) — pull to check (not automatically valuable)
  • Indian Head cents, 1859–1909
  • Any 1909 cent — check for an "S" and "V.D.B."
  • Anything that isn't a normal modern Lincoln

Pile 3 Old dollars

  • Morgan dollars, 1878–1921
  • Peace dollars, 1921–1935
  • Eisenhower dollars 1971–1976 — check for the 40% silver collector version
  • Any other big silver-looking dollar
  • Don't melt without checking date + mint mark

Pile 4 Gold — keep all

  • $1 gold · $2.50 quarter eagle
  • $3 gold piece · $5 half eagle
  • $10 eagle · $20 double eagle
  • Any small yellow/gold-colored old U.S. coin — stop and check it (you may not recognize a quarter eagle)
  • Separate immediately — don't take it to a pawn shop "just to see"

Pile 5 Unusual — set it aside

  • Odd denominations: 2¢, 3¢, half dimes, 20¢, large cents
  • Commemoratives, tokens, colonial-looking coins
  • Foreign silver/gold, coins with unusual shapes, or apparent errors
  • If someone deliberately kept it, that's a reason to look closer

Pile 6 Classic designs — pull by look

  • Buffalo nickels 1913–1938 (Native American / buffalo) — not silver, but always pull
  • Mercury dimes 1916–1945 · Standing Liberty quarters 1916–1930
  • Walking Liberty halves 1916–1947 · Franklin halves 1948–1963
  • Recognizable by design — most are silver; pull them by sight even if you can't read the date

*War nickels: the ones with a large mint mark (P, D, or S) above Monticello on the back.

Silver, at a glance

If you remember nothing else, remember the date lines. In U.S. coins, silver mostly disappeared after 1964:

CoinDatesSilver content
Dimes, quarters, half dollars1964 & earlier90% silver
Half dollars (Kennedy)1965–197040% silver
Eisenhower dollars (silver collector issues)1971–197640% silver
Nickels ("war" nickels — big mint mark over Monticello)1942–1945*35% silver
Silver dollars (Morgan / Peace)1878–193590% silver

Silver alone gives these coins value even before you consider whether a date or mint mark makes them collectible.

Then check the date and the mint mark

Once the piles are made, this is the single most useful thing to learn: two coins that look identical can be worth wildly different amounts because of where they were struck. The classic example is the Morgan dollar — a Carson City (CC) Morgan gets a collector's attention fast.

CC — Carson City S — San Francisco D — Denver O — New Orleans

A Carson City (CC) coin isn't an automatic jackpot — some CC dates are common — but it always means stop and check it.

⚠ Don't clean anything

This one deserves its own giant warning, because it's the mistake that costs people the most money. A valuable old coin with original surfaces can become far less desirable after cleaning — sometimes losing most of its premium.

No polishingNo dippingNo scrubbingNo silver cleanerNo toothbrushNo baking soda

Before you sell

Get more than one opinion, and don't sell to the first buyer who makes an offer. For real values, take your "check these" pile to a reputable coin dealer, or look for coins certified by PCGS or NGC and dealers affiliated with the ANA (American Numismatic Association). Sell the melt-value silver and the collectible coins as two different things — a common date silver quarter is worth its silver; a rare date or mint mark can be worth many times more.

Sorted your stack? Now write it down.

Once you know what you've got, catalog and value it before it goes back in the safe. GoldPayroll's free, private Vault Report values your gold and silver at live spot and generates a clean, print-ready record — nothing uploaded, no account needed. Prefer a spreadsheet? Grab the free inventory template.

Open the free Vault Report → or download the free inventory spreadsheet

This guide is for education and personal record-keeping only. It is not an appraisal, and it is not financial, tax, or investment advice. Coin values depend on date, mint mark, condition, and market — always get a professional opinion before buying or selling. Estimated silver melt values are indicative and change with the market.